St Tanwg’s: Wales’ Ancient Sanctuary Battling Sea and Crime

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St Tanwg’s Church, nestled in the sand dunes of Llandanwg near Harlech, stands as a testament to endurance, having withstood centuries of coastal storms that frequently buried its ancient stonework beneath shifting sands. At one point, abandonment left the church to local fishermen, who hung their nets on the altar rail, yet the building’s spirit never faded as it was restored in 1884 and again in 1987, ensuring its place as one of the oldest sites of continuous Christian worship in the United Kingdom.

Dating back to around 435AD, the site’s origins are marked by inscribed stones from the 5th and 6th centuries, including the notable Equester Stone, while the present medieval structure likely took shape in the 13th century with later extensions and alterations.

The churchyard holds the grave of Siôn Phylip, a Welsh poet and contemporary of Shakespeare, who drowned in 1620 while crossing from Shell Island to Llandanwg, leaving behind a rich poetic legacy and a family that continued his literary tradition.

Even a sanctuary as venerable as St Tanwg’s is not untouched by crime, as last December saw thieves break in and steal valuable silver and brass items, including candle holders and a communion cup, from what many call Meirionnydd’s little “Church in the Sand.” The loss, while perhaps less dramatic than the thefts at Edgbaston or Sherborne Abbey, was deeply felt by the local community for whom the church is a humble but vital landmark.

Recent data reveals that between 2022 and 2024, nearly 487 crimes targeted churches across Wales, with theft of lead from roofs and acts of vandalism posing persistent threats to these historic buildings. In 2022 alone, Llanllwchaiarn church in Newtown suffered damage to its stained-glass windows with repair costs exceeding £30,000, while Eglwys y Grog near Mwnt saw its windows smashed and donation box destroyed, acts described as “senseless” by those who cherish these sites.

The Countryside Alliance, which compiled these figures through Freedom of Information requests, highlighted the vulnerability of churches, with Mo Metcalf-Fisher stating, “These figures bring into stark relief the devastating fact that many churches and places of worship are being treated as easy targets by criminals.” He added, “These are supposed to be places of refuge and tranquillity, where people go to worship or seek solace – but all too often they are being subjected to heinous crimes, either in or on their property.

Irrespective of faith or none, churches are more than just community buildings, they are often part of our centuries-old history and heritage. They must be protected.”

North Wales Police reported 184 church crimes in the same period, with vandalism accounting for more than half, while across Britain, 3,937 thefts-including 179 of lead-were recorded, alongside incidents of sexual assault and drug trafficking. This equates to at least eight crimes at churches every day, a trend that police chiefs have called “abhorrent,” prompting calls for the UK Government to extend funding for the Places of Worship Protective Security Scheme and to consider new aggravated offences for damage to heritage assets.

Mr Metcalf-Fisher emphasized, “We cannot allow these precious places, which are often the centre of villages and towns in Wales and across the country, to go unguarded and be so exposed. Easy access to protective funding schemes is of the greatest importance, but it is just as vital that members of the public keep an ever-watchful eye on churches and report suspicious behaviour to police.”

As the church faces modern threats, it also contends with the relentless advance of the sea; in 1911, St Tanwg’s stood 1,600 metres from the high water mark, but today that distance has shrunk to just 20 metres. The National Churches Trust notes, “From inside the simple stone walls you can hear the waves on the beach even on the stillest day,” a reminder that the future of this ancient sanctuary depends on both human vigilance and nature’s mercy.