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Caerphilly Castle, the largest castle in Wales and the second-largest in Britain, stands as a monumental testament to medieval engineering and ambition in South Wales, constructed by Gilbert de Clare to assert control over Glamorgan.
Gilbert de Clare, known as “Red Gilbert” for his hair, began constructing Caerphilly Castle in 1268 to secure his gains in Glamorgan, prompted by the rising power of Welsh prince Llywelyn ap Gruffudd. Built in the Rhymney Valley alongside the Rhymney River near a former Roman fort, the castle’s construction progressed rapidly, with ditches, wooden palisades, and water defences shaped by damming a local stream.
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Llywelyn attacked and burnt the site in 1270, but de Clare resumed work in 1271, completing the main structure by 1271 despite interruptions by royal officials and bishops Roger de Meyland and Godfrey Giffard. The castle’s completion around 1290 solidified de Clare’s control after Edward I’s campaigns diminished Llywelyn’s power.
Conflicts and Transitions
Caerphilly withstood attacks during the Madog ap Llywelyn revolt of 1294, the Llywelyn Bren uprising of 1316, and the overthrow of Edward II in 1326–27, when Isabella of France’s forces besieged it, holding Hugh le Despenser’s son and constable Sir John de Felton until March 1327. The castle faced the Glyndŵr Rising in 1400, likely captured by Owain Glyndŵr’s forces, but survived intact.
By the late 15th century, it declined as Cardiff Castle gained prominence, with its water defences draining due to neglect. In 1583, Thomas Lewis stripped stone from the castle, causing extensive damage.
Civil War and Restoration
During the English Civil War (1642–1646), a sconce was built overlooking Caerphilly, possibly by Royalists or Parliamentarians, though its role in slighting the castle remains uncertain, with subsidence likely causing tower collapses. The Marquesses of Bute acquired the castle in 1776, with John Stuart protecting the ruins and John Crichton-Stuart, the third marquess, initiating restoration in the 1870s, including reroofing the Great Hall.
The fourth marquess, John Crichton-Stuart, led a major restoration from 1928 to 1939, rebuilding the Inner East Gatehouse and repairing stonework with architect William Frame. In 1950, the fifth marquess, John Crichton-Stuart, gifted the castle to the state, with water defences re-flooded in the 1950s and 1960s, including the East Moat in 1962 by Richard Thomson.
Scale and Design
Caerphilly Castle spans 30 acres, making it the largest castle in Wales and the third-largest in the UK, after Dover and Windsor Castles. Constructed on a natural gravel bank with Pennant sandstone walls, it introduced concentric castle defences to Britain, influencing Edward I’s castles in North Wales. Its elaborate water defences, inspired by Kenilworth Castle, include artificial lakes and dams, described by historian Allen Brown as “the most elaborate water defences in all Britain.”
The castle comprises eastern defences with the Outer East Moat and North Lake, a Central Island with inner and middle wards, and a Western Island, possibly called Y Weringaer or “the people’s fort.”
Key Features
The Outer Main Gatehouse features circular towers on spurred, pyramidic bases, unique to South Wales, once accessed by two drawbridges. The North Dam, with three towers possibly housing stables, and the 152-meter South Dam with Felton’s Tower and Giffard’s Tower (South Gatehouse) protect the sluicegates. The Inner Ward, with four corner turrets, and the Middle Ward form concentric rings, a design historian Norman Pounds called “a turning point in the history of the castle in Britain.”
The south-east tower, leaning at a 10-degree angle due to probable subsidence or Civil War gunpowder, is wittily noted as “wonkier even than that of Pisa.” The Inner East Gatehouse, modeled on Tonbridge Castle, features portcullises and murder-holes, doubling as luxurious accommodation for the constable.
Interior Highlights
The Great Hall, revamped by Hugh Despenser in 1325–1326 with ornate windows and doors by Master Thomas de la Bataile and William Hurley, features carved corbels possibly depicting Edward II, Isabella of France, Hugh Despenser, and Eleanor de Clare.
The castle includes a chapel above the buttery and pantry, two solar blocks with luxurious fittings, and four replica siege engines on display. The Western Island, accessed by drawbridges, may have served the town during conflicts.
Modern Appeal and Management
Managed by Cadw as a tourist attraction, Caerphilly Castle welcomed 90,914 visitors in 2006 and is a scheduled monument and grade I listed building. Visitors can navigate “Gilbert’s Maze,” a unique activity through hidden passageways, climb the massive east gatehouse for views of the stone and water defences, or visit the rooftop to see the leaning south-east tower. The Great Hall hosts wedding ceremonies, enriching its modern appeal.
Built to counter Llywelyn ap Gruffudd’s influence, Caerphilly transformed from a frontline fortress into a palatial home with a hunting park and northern lake after his death, passing to Hugh Despenser under Edward II. Its water defences, re-flooded in the 1950s, create a “mythical castle floating in an enchanted lake” effect. Compared to other Welsh castles like Beaumaris, Conwy, Caernarfon, and Harlech (all World Heritage Sites), Caerphilly stands out for its size and pioneering concentric design.
Conclusion
Caerphilly Castle, Wales’ largest fortress at 30 acres, built by Gilbert de Clare in the 13th century, remains a towering symbol of medieval innovation with its concentric defences and elaborate water systems. Managed by Cadw, its historical resilience, architectural importance, and modern attractions like “Gilbert’s Maze” make it a must-visit, outshining even World Heritage Sites like Beaumaris and Conwy in scale.
